Mad Men is a television drama series set in the 1960s that follows the lives of the men and women navigating the high-pressure environment of a Madison Avenue advertising agency. In this 1960s male-dominated workplace, two women by the names of Joan Holloway and Peggy Olson, shatter the glass ceiling by their own means, demeanors, and looks. Joan is a self-assured, bright woman who is noted for her striking, glamorous looks that mask her intelligence and skills in the eyes of others to create a space that truly propels her. She utilizes her imagery and sensuality to her advantage while striving to uphold a traditional gender role, even when it hinders her from fitting into the defined mold of a woman during their time.
Though at first glance, Peggy is the other side of the coin to Joan. An innocent, quiet, unsure girl entering the workforce who struggles to fit into the mold, going on to develop into a force of nature that not only keeps up with the times, but surpasses it. Forging her own path in a time where women were not seen as equal to men, she does not become a counterpart but rather goes beyond the road so easily taken by men. The two women understand the system, work both within or outside of it, and transcend the ideals to live their real lives rather than striving to fit into who they should quote unquote be.
In the 1960s, social and political developments were accelerating, and the sexual revolution and feminist movement had a significant impact on women’s everyday lives. Including appearances, style, and beauty practices. Fashion and beauty may act as a reflection of who people are or want to be as well as a marker of cultural norms and ambitions. Joan and Peggy are at the heart of the glamorous golden age of advertising, from contributing to accounts and keeping the office running. Both women are running part of the show, but they are not one of the boys or the average secretary.
This period is one where traditional gender roles are enforced in a multitude of ways from behavior to image, Joan and Peggy are navigating womanhood, identity, and ambitions in a time where womanhood is defined for them. Joan utilizes this to her advantage, The sheath aka wiggle dress of the 50s and early 1960 was Joan’s staple silhouette, along with many late fifties moments. She flatters her figure through fitted garments of jewel tones that showcase her strength and represent her bold nature amidst adversity, such as emerald, sapphire, and her signature ruby. Emeralds are best known as the gems of truth and love, but in ancient times in Greece and Rome, the gemstone was of the goddess Venus.
Joan is frequently likened to various sex symbols by her coworkers. She is aware of this and plays into the part, with her inspirations of Marilyn Monroe And Sophia Loren. The costume Designer filtered Joan’s belief systems through into her clothing, the traditional feminine. She is well aware of her outstanding beauty and how beauty in society can function as a form of social currency. In the same manner, Monroe created a persona, she created a space for herself to achieve in business that she would not otherwise have, hence her knowledge and abilities are accepted by those around her.
She not only runs the office and conducts the men, but also the women. Serving as a mentor and providing guidance to other ladies. For instance, when she welcomes in Peggy, a recent graduate of secretarial school. Janie Bryant, the costume designer, emphasized Peggy’s youth and naivety. Her wardrobe throughout the show, is a reflection of her beliefs and goals in the same manner as Joan, but she is not adhering to the traditional role of a woman. She wears Peter Pan colors, and a-line skirts, is bare-faced, and her long hair is tied back.
Her style is reminiscent of her school days, and the schoolgirl look serves as the base upon which she builds her style. Peggy’s faith also plays a role in her belief systems and by extension her wardrobe. Plaids are another foundation element by which her style builds, even when she has a crisis of faith. Another style signature is the layers both literal and not to Peggy. Bryant adorns Peggy with a multitude of patterns, textures, and at times physical garments to be reflective of the amount of depth the character holds.
In spite of the fact that Peggy is looking to belong in the corporate world, she herself does not fit the mold and stands out from day one. Peggy’s attempts to escape the male gaze and her costume design coincided with her career development, unlike the rest of the women in the show whose costumes were romantic in nature. Her style evolves from girlhood to womanhood with a practical essence that develops with her progressive nature. Into season 2, Peggy begins to be more assertive and not only sheds the long hair, but also her secretary status and comes into her own into season 3. Peggy’s hairstyle changes in unison with her shifts and belief systems from here on out. But some aspects of her look remain steadfast.
Peggy every season continues to wear older garments that were previously worn and her wardrobe has a gradual build. New pieces are introduced and the old is held onto. She would not be one to be concerned with trends but rather present herself in the light she sees fit to reach her goals. Which would not necessarily be what is in Vogue. Joan’s look is also evolving as she experiments with 60s patterns, but her style signature rule is prominent. She has an awareness of how fashion serves and how to integrate in trends that align with her as she is style-conscious.
At this time, Peggy begins to wear more classically masculine garments. Menswear over time evolves at a much slower pace than womenswear, as women’s looks evolve rapidly, Peggy follows the menswear path: the classic suit for business and filters this through the lens of a woman. In the same manner that she cannot look to other women for style cues, she does not have another woman to look to for her career goal so instead she looks to Don as a mentor for guidance. This impacts her image as she is evolving as a career woman and takes on the look that will allow for her to fit into this male-dominated workplace of her time. Social Psychological and Personality Science studies have proven that formal business attire increases abstract thinking, hence increasing long-term strategizing and creativity. Peggy sports her own version of the look and begins to be adapt to her environment through both dress and behavior. Mirroring her mentor. Straighter silhouettes, lines of angular nature, and darker or neutral colors. Psychological this is linked to traits of leadership and competence.
Into later seasons Joan and Peggy’s looks remain within a specific realm despite their development in contrast to women of the show that are more future-oriented as a defining trait. Carrying the spirit of rebellion and change, such as Megan.
If you are interested in the style evolution and the reality behind the quote-unquote ideal woman, The Reality Behind the Ideal Woman – Mad Men Betty & Megan Style Analysis is available for further information.
Viewers get a new glance into Joan’s life behind closed doors. She aspires to be the “ideal” woman of her time, which leads to a troubled marriage and a barren career. Joan despite her wants and beliefs, is battling the expectations of what it means to be a woman in a traditional gender role. Joan is in a robe, loungewear, and very undone practices, mirroring her exhaustion and need for rest. She dresses up to the office in an eye-catching statement ensemble, a look to define her place in the workplace and masks her fear of losing her job through the classic curvy-hugging silhouette in a symbolically bright prideful pink with black ominous flowers printed upon it hinting at her struggles.
She is a woman who cares for her career in a time when women were expected to stay in line in the workplace and become homemakers. The dress tells of her need to uphold her femininity as a tool, the overdressed aspect caters to defining herself as the crucial focal point and by extension employee in their environment, and how she is continuing to strive for this narrative that promises hope and happiness. Even if it does not genuinely fulfill her.
Joan begins to integrate in new styling techniques as well as pieces such as vests with skirts and a new a line silhouette with a higher hemline over the fitted pencil. Not free from molding herself to an ideal, she experiences more not only with her experiences but also her looks. Joan’s goals shift and she begins to strive for more responsibility in her career, her style loosens. She still plays with patterns and upholds the look of the early 60s through her classic adornments such as broaches and jewelry, but her hair becomes much less perfected and loosens to some degree. Her wardrobe begins to become career-reflective over romantic, and as her prominence at the ad agency increases, the quality of her clothing follows suit. Joan invests in high-end pieces and experiments more with fashion that reflects her personal taste.
Peggy’s fashion grows with her confidence, she lets go of Don’s ways and understands that she must think for herself rather than follow in the footsteps of another. Her clothing retains girlish roots, but holds masculine leaning essences and develops to be more modern while upholding tradition. Her colors grow in saturation, lines stronger, and her hairstyle shortens with time. In season 6 she sports pants for the first time, depicting how far she has come. In season 7 her signatures of style are defined, a combination of all her style eras balanced out and working in unison with one another. A reflection of her making peace with all parts of herself and becoming confident in navigating her own path rather than unsure walking alone with her ambition being the only force to push her.
Into season 7, Joan’s style relaxes while retaining glamour. She lets go of her pencil necklace, which the costume designer noted to be symbolic of her fending of with femininity in the office. By letting off this staple, it is evident that Joan has escaped the mold of ideals that she struggled so greatly with. rather than solid colors with embellishments she opts for intricate detailing throughout her looks as she moves up the career ladder. Peggy, rather than desexualizing herself and dressing down in order to be taken seriously, embraces womanhood with an understanding that her femininity and self-expression does not need to be suppressed in order to be respected through Chanel suits and still holds onto her former self with a Chanel Number babydoll dress that would have been too daring in her eyes prior.
The pantsuit was of orange, black, and white heavily stark and symbolic of determination psychologically. Peggy stands in Don’s office, rather than the silhouette of Don we as viewers have grown accustomed to seeing, Peggy stands in his place. Revealing how she did not just simply open the door of change, but took a bare wall and made the door herself. Leaving it open for others to walk through as well.
She declines Joan’s invitation to work with one another and continues on her path and Joan does the same as the in her own way, running a film production company on her own terms. With her past experiences goes into becoming a successful business owner and confident single mother, no longer catering to the expectations of society. Both Joan and Peggy have shattered the glass ceiling and grown into their own ideas of identity, goals, and imagery that truly resonate with themselves as people over what is deemed proper for them in the eyes of another. Through the differing utilization of fashion, it is evident how image holds power in society and how those who break the mold of ideals can have their style not only suit them in a beautiful manner, but serve oneself in an embracive manner to adapt to the real self over the idealized conceptual verison to create a true presence in the world.
SOURCES: Mad Men Style Evolution- https://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/photos/2015/03/mad-men-style-evolution Peggy Character Bio- https://madmen.fandom.com/wiki/Peggy_Olson Joan Character Bio- https://madmen.fandom.com/wiki/Joan_Holloway The psychology behind work uniforms- https://www.hbcw.co.uk/news/the-psychology-behind-work-uniforms Costume designer Janie Bryant on Joan’s Style Secrets- https://screenrant.com/mad-men-hidden-details-joan-holloway-costume/
