Scarface 1983 is a crime drama directed by Brian De Palma and written by Oliver Stone. The costume design of this film, by Patricia Norris, has gone on to be greatly notable with a lasting longevity and enduring relevance, specifically the looks sported by the character of Elvira. From strong suiting to slinky gowns, the character is the epitome of disco chic glamour holding a radiance beyond her time. She stands out from the others with her looks, from the beauty practices of makeup and hair to signatures of style that make up her ensembles. The combination of modernity and the spirit of the past breathes life into the timeless appeal. shining through an ice-cold exterior, that hides a broken, afflicted woman.
Elvira Hancock as a character falls under the ice queen trope. The signature characteristic of this trope an ambiguity that produces an icy demeanor. She often holds a dead-pan expression that is not so easily broken. She attracts but is never truly won over as she is emotionally detached. Her glamorous, vigorous gorgeously styled appearance paired with an abrasive attitude conceals a shattered person battling addiction and a deep emptiness.
In Elvira’s first appearance, she enters the room in an open-back dress with a rhinestone embroidered plunging neckline and thigh-high slit. Despite her sultry styling, she has a classic and youthful haircut that gives her a slight essence of innocence and individuality, rather than the appearance of a quintessential blonde bombshell. The dress is in a teal, a color conjured up by blue and green, but also interchangeable with cyan and turquoise. Teal is a color that has boundaries in pairing, a hue that doesn’t easily harmonize with others naturally. It is strong and unconventional in nature, yet modern in an idiosyncratic, elegant way much like Elvira herself. She is apprehensive and detached, but openly enjoys wealth, evident but her luxurious looks that are easily outshined by the exuberant trends.
In a time of excess and abundance, Elvira’s look is reminiscent of the 70s moreso than the 80s, specifically caring about the spirit of the fashion house, Halston. His creative vision was one of beauty and splendor, possessing vibrancy through a unique take on tailoring. Making the most of minimalist lines. Elvira is also one to lean on the side of minimalism, uneasy to pinpoint or explain at face value , yet intriguing with a certain subtly that captivates.
Just as Halston drew inspiration from nights at Studio 54, her looks is also inspired by those sported for her nights out.
Elvia’s nights out though are not so glamorous and always the same time and time again, her ensembles mirror this. The backless halter in lavish silks and pure satins are a staple in her wardrobe. Accenting her looks with smaller adornments such as a single diamond ring, bracelet, and her go-to drop earrings. Feeling trapped without escape, she practically relives the same sorts of days over and over until Tony comes into her life. Elvira makes it abundantly clear that she goes along with Tony rather than feeling strongly for him, but does have moments where her icy exterior melts.
For instance, when she rejects him and he playful tries on her hat. Even when laughing, she attempts to regain her composure and concentrates on her looks. Her self confinement and rejection of present life are evident in her sharply tailored stark suit. She is dressed in pure white, the absence of color, from head to toe. Even her suit jacket is cinched at the waist for sleek, minimalist lines over a more suitable accessory to the 80s. The suit held the tone of a Yves Saint Laurent suit, groundbreaking in the 70s, over the coveted Armani 80s power suit that would be in style. Elvira, despite the fact she could easily sport the best clothing of her time, keeps looking to the past. The suit paid homage to The Postman Always Rings Twice 1846 and the bias cuts were inspired by The Public Enemy. Both references breathed life into the image of Elvira, as the director often pulled from classic cinema. Scarface 1932, also laid the groundwork for her style.
Even her swimsuit holds her style signatures with a halter top, low plunging neckline, and backless finish to a one-piece emerald swimsuit. The poolside look is paired with a fluid in nature over-structured white shirt as a coverup, and glasses. Elvira often wears sunglasses, this form of glasses reduces visual communication of emotional responses. Elvira’s glasses of choice for sunny Miami days are an oversized cat-eye in a neutral rose-tone frame with lensed tinted black from the top down. Unlike other glasses, these lenses partially allow for the space around the eyes to be seen, letting people in a bit more, but retaining a distance while holding a sophistication and accent of effortless glamour.
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The glasses are less dramatic than most but allow for Elvira’s flat expression to shine through even with lenses on. The design of the glasses in unison with her face not only makes her look classy and fashion-forward but also elevated and creates sharper lines on the face structure with an uplifting effect. Mirroring her behavior of constantly acting above those around her, but granting this small accessibility that is enough to draw people in. But also hardening her expression and removing the softness of her face while retaining feminine lines.
The lines of Elvira’s looks are not only symbolic to her, but also to Tony. She isn’t just armed candy to him, but she represented all he wanted in the world. When his sister wears a similarly cut dress, Tony becomes incredibly angry and wants better for her in life than what he wants. Signifying that though Tony genuinely cares for Elvira, he also sees her as another goal to chase. We see Tony unfulfilled when his goals are met, hence the tiger nickname as psychologically, tigers represent something that provokes fear, but also majesty, wealth, and strength. All things Tony longs for, but Elvira is truly not this. Though the symbol of both on-screen and in her world, Elvira lifts the curtain to of the loneliness and emptiness that both face while on the rise. He later sees that she is not the trophy wife he thought she would be, but not who she actually is.
Elvira’s loungewear is the first time she sports pants, they are still sleek and satin as her other clothing is. This time the top features an open front rather than aback, the material is in cream with taupe accents, a low contrast pattern. Her minimal looks are just like her, uneasy to pinpoint or explain at face value. She continues to wear minimal looks that are not eyecatching in her time but give her a subdued look. Blending into the background rather than ever standing out. She wastes away each day, sullen, unhappy, and her icy exterior and sharp tongue no longer can protect her, as she is not facing those around her, but her own dismal emptiness.
Elvira reaches her breaking point when out to dinner in her final look of the film. She is wearing again diamond jewelry, symbolic of hardness and invincibility. And a glamorous gown, this one made of sequins in black rather than color for the first time. A look as dark and gleaming as her state of mind. Unlike other characters of this trope, Elvira is not an ice queen that thaws and warms up with others. Traditionally, this character trope will evolve and/or reconcile with others. Elvira reconciles and evolves within herself, despite retaining the same look and mannerisms the entire film, her storyline is an internal one where she comes to find herself disgusted with who she has become. She storms off and her ending is open to interpretation, as we don’t actually see where she goes or what she does next. The only confirmation of her not returning is made in Scarface: The World is Yours, where she is missing and does not appear in Tony’s life again.
However, Elvira’s looks make many appearances in modern media and culture. From high fashion references such as Celine Spring Summer 2022 and Balmain Spring Summer 2015 as well as inspiration to celebrity style and personal fashion. Her codes of dress have been inspirational for sleek, slinky looks with a subtle and quiet confidence that doesn’t overtly grab the eye but catches it with allure. Her clothing is minimally produced with an emphasis on line and embracing natural beauty. Her fashion holds simplicity in an effortlessly cool and chic way without sacrificing luxury or quality. Elvira’s cool factor is one of self-expression and one that keeps her depth away from others. Despite her glamorous appearance, it is clear she is not herself at all. Though Elvira’s storyline is a fraction of the film, she is much more than a doll-faced trophy wife or sharp-witted ice queen, she is the fundamental truth of Scarface personified.
In this analysis, we will be looking into the fashion and mind of Elvira from Scarface (1983 film). This video will break down her looks in relation to her inner psyche, the ice queen trope, and how the costume design was utilized to tell her story within the framework of the film’s overall narrative. From strong suiting to slinky gowns, the character is the epitome of disco chic glam holding a radiance beyond her time with an impact on runways and style today. This video will also cover the references of her looks from Halston and Studio 54 to the influential decade-oriented elements of the 30s, 70s, & 80s. With this, we can better understand the meanings of Elvira’s looks not just as a cold, glamorous love interest; but as a woman self-contained by her addiction and desire for fortune amidst a world of danger and excess.
